Úbeda - Renaissance Tourism
A Spanish town with architectural delights and panoramic views
A guided tour of an undiscovered jewel of Renaissance architecture set in the spectacular countryside of northern Andalusia.
If you make the effort to reach the centre of this small town in the Jaén province of Andalusia, you will be rewarded with historic treats and views which will swallow you up.
Set on the main arterial route from the provincial capital cities of Jaén and Albacete, Úbeda appears at first view to be no more than a small functional town. It seems no different from other towns in this part of Spain, dependant on the olive oil from the million of olive trees covering the surrounding countryside like a blanket. The outward face of industrial estates and tractors, however, hides a heart worthy of the World Heritage Site accolade bestowed upon it in 2003. It has important architectural examples and wonderful rustic charm of narrow cobbled streets and majestic stone houses. All this in the setting of panoramic views of the Sierra de Cazorla across the valley of the Guadalquivir River makes the town a must for the explorer of Spain’s interior.
To be able to explore the historical part of the town a convenient underground car park is found in the Plaza de Andalucia. This plaza is the centre of the commercial part of the town and many bars and cafés are interspersed with independent clothes shops and other establishments. There is always a healthy buzz of commerce and friendliness here, a reminder that this is a flourishing town and not just a tourist relic.
A walk up the Calle Mesones to the Hospital de Santiago is repaid by the sight of this beautiful edifice known as the “Estorial of Andalusia”. Its majestic towers overlook relaxing internal patios, each with a refreshing fountain, which are open throughout the day.
Returning to the Plaza de Andalucia, and heading along the Corredera de Fernando, brings glimpses of the old city walls. Turning right at the market leads us into the narrow street called Melchor Almagro which takes us past majestic old dwellings into the Plaza del 1 de Mayo. This is a beautiful tree-lined square overlooked by the Church of San Pablo and is a popular gathering point for the local inhabitants on summer evenings.
The far corner of this plaza leads into the Plaza del Ayuntamiento and we are now coming close to the beautiful heart of the town. The Ayuntamiento or Town Hall is now housed in the Palace of Vazquez de Molina also known as the Palace of Chains. On the other side of this remarkable building is the magnificent Plaza de Vazquez de Molina where there are found some of the greatest examples of Renaissance architecture in the whole of Spain.
The Town Hall itself houses a tourist museum with displays explaining the history and important sites of Úbeda in Spanish, French, English, German, Italian and Braille. Across the Square is the Church of Santa Maria with its two bell towers. This church is currently undergoing renovation.
Turning to the left you see a beautiful avenue lined with orange trees leading past the Parador hotel, an expensive but luxurious accommodation option, to the stunning Holy Chapel of El Salvador. This chapel is covered in beautiful carvings and these are matched by the amazing internal decoration.
Just past the Chapel you find yourself in the Plaza de Santa Lucia above further examples of the old city wall, and on a clear day the views across the valley of the Guadalquivir valley to the Sierra de Cazorla will take your breath away.
For anyone wanting a glimpse of the old Spain there is hardly a better place to aim for. Úbeda, along with its neighbour Baeza, has all that is necessary for a true Spanish experience. The night life is thriving and the tapas (free snacks provided with a drink) are famous throughout the area. It is also a convenient stepping-off point for an exploration of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas.
