El Ventorro Hotel nestles in the Sierras de Alhama, 80 km (50 miles) north of Malaga in Andalucia, Southern Spain. Newly created, the 8 en-suite rooms are scooped out of the mountain, with high domed ceilings and large comfortable beds. They may be caves but all rooms have TV and heating.
The cave rooms face onto an Andalucia styled sunny courtyard which has yet another door leading to Arab baths. In the reception area clean soft towels are given out and a locker key on a plastic bangle which fits around the wrist.
Women go to the left and men to the right, to change into swimming costumes, tuck hair into bathing caps, and slip rubber sandals onto feet. Clothes are folded into lockers and the experience begins through another door where there is a large room softly lit, with the sound of falling water echoing off the ornately tiled walls. There are three pools and a steam room.
It may not be as authentic as the Arab baths in Granada, and it may be a bit like spa meets Arab baths, but it is a taste of relaxation unlike any other. A dozen people at a time slide into the warm or cold pools.
Discreetly shielded from view is a room with masseurs undoing the tension from the backs of 2 people. After 15 minutes, these 2 take a warm shower to remove the massage oils, and then glide into the warm water pool and appear to fall asleep with their heads resting on the edge of the baths.
The water is lit from below with a changing spectrum of blues and greens, whilst the water in a Jacuzzi pool bubbles almost in unison with softly playing Arabic music.
After the baths, lunch can be enjoyed in the hotel restaurant. With its traditional Spanish menu it is well patronised by locals and tourists alike. Main courses start at under 10 euros (US$ 15). Local wine, Vino de Alhama Aranzada, costs less than 3 euros (US$4.50) a glass.
After lunch, for the energetic, the restaurant provides a map of a walking trail through the beautiful countryside which takes about 2 hours to complete.
There is also, rather incongruously just beyond the parking area, a bird watching hide. The Alhama river has been dammed, creating a lake which provides the perfect habitat for a dozen different water birds as well as herons, cormorants and ibis.
It is a 5 minute drive into the village of Alhama de Granada which has stunning views into a natural gorge. The village itself is rather lacking in charm apart from the church and the village square which sports an unusual fountain.
Tel. ++34 958350438 and ask for someone who speaks English.