El Rastro, Madrid's Legendary Flea Market
Experience Madrid's Sunday Morning Market and Shop for Treasure
Mar 6, 2009
El Rastro de Madrid is a favorite destination of both local madrileños and tourists, as evidenced by the thousands of people that browse the many stalls and open antique shops every Sunday morning.
A Brief History of El Rastro
Since the 15th century, the El Rastro neighborhood has been viewed as a commercial area, specifically famous for the trade of second hand items. Eventually a slaughterhouse was built here, resulting in a booming leather trade which manifested itself in the open air market. The main street of El Rastro is called Ribera de Curtidores (Riverbank of Leather Workers or Tanner's Alley) and it is possible that the name El Rastro (The Trail) stems from the times of dragging slaughtered animals from the slaughterhouse to the tannery, as the carcasses left a dark trail of blood.
By the time the slaughterhouse closed the area was known for its market and though the leather goods decreased, vendors of other goods appeared. Now it is possible to shop for anything and everything in El Rastro, from paintings to house pets.
The Schedule of the Market and Advice for Madrid Tourists
El Rastro takes place every Sunday morning from 9 am until about 3 pm, depending on the weather. Locals often appear earliest, haggling with the vendors before the crowds pack in. Tourists tend to trickle in during the busiest time (from 12-2). Both of these times offer a unique and different El Rastro experience.
Traditionally, in the afternoon shoppers step into the surrounding bars and restaurants to take a break with a cold caña (small beer) and a tapa, or small snack. This sustenence is usually taken standing, as the bars and restaurants can be just as busy as the streets outside the door. Alternatively, shoppers may purchase a bocadillo (sandwich) and a soft drink to make it through to lunch.
Since El Rastro is always extremely busy (and filled with tourists!) pickpocketers thrive here. Backpacks should be worn in front, or, better, left at home, and wallets and purses should be kept hidden.
Navigating the Flea Market: Begin at Plaza de Cascorro
Beginning at Plaza de Cascorro is common. Here, the statue of Eloy Gonzalo stands above the square to help you get your bearings. Eloy Gonzalo was a young soldier during the time of the Cuban War, and his statue holding a gas can and torch reminds proud Madrileños of his act of war-time bravery: volunteering to set fire to a building from which the Spanish were continually bombed. He was dragged back to the Spanish lines by a rope tied around his waist and though he survived the ordeal, he died later of lasting injury and illness. Many Madrileños believe that in order to find treasure at El Rastro, one must greet and bid goodbye to Eloy's statue while in the area.
Ribera de Curtidores connects directly to Plaza de Cascorro and runs the length of El Rastro. The area can be accessed from metro stops La Latina and Lavapies. Don't stick to the main street, though, or risk missing out on the winding side streets full of goods. View the El Rastro Wikipedia page for a list of streets that offer specific products.
El Rastro Flea Market: A Unique Experience Only Madrid Can Offer
Despite the crowds and the minor claustrophobia, El Rastro can provide a memorable experience, a taste of both Spanish and Moroccan cultures, and a great shopping opportunity!
Don't expect to visit every booth at El Rastro in one day. The market is better experienced than conquered. Browse slowly, and don't expect to leave empty handed. In El Rastro, there is something for everyone.
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