James Michener once wrote that “Anyone who remains in this city overnight is out of his mind.” He was writing about Toledo. Eventually, the famous author and traveler came to see Toledo as a spiritual home and himself as a privileged guest. It remained to him “the city which I recall with greatest frequency if not the most affection.”
A City of Tangled History and Multiple Cultures
Toledo contains more than 2,000 years of diverse Roman, Visigothic, Moorish, Christian, and Jewish history. After the fall of Rome, this former Roman transportation hub became the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom, later a regional center of the Moors, then an outpost of the Christian kingdom. In the 16th century, Toledo became the seat of power of Spain’s King, Charles I, and remained Spain’s political capital until 1561 when son Philip II moved the capital to Madrid. In addition, a wealthy and educated Jewish community thrived from the city’s earliest times.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site
From this diversity of cultures evolved distinctive artistic and architectural styles in the form of palaces, fortresses, churches, mosques, and synagogues. Appropriately, the city has been named to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites. Some of the "must see" venues in old Toledo include the Alcazar, a former imperial residence, the Santa Cruz Museum of art (including numerous works by the famous resident artist, El Greco), the Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca, which displays a harmonious combination of Christian, Moorish, and Jewish influcences, and Toledo's magnificent cathedral.
Indeed, Toledo's cathedral is considered one of Europe's best. The predominantly Gothic structure was begun in 1226 and not completed until the late 15th century. Beautiful stained glass, wood carvings, and elaborate wrought-iron work are among its treasures. And art lovers should not miss the cathedral's sancristy which holds a priceless collection of masterpieces by El Greco, Velazquez, Goya, Rubens, Titian, and others.
An Easy Trip from Spain's Current Capital
Spain’s former capital is just thirty minutes from Madrid on the high-speed AVA train, or an hour by bus. The enchanted walled city sits on a hill, protected on three sides by the Tajo River. A tourist tram that leaves from Toledo’s main square, Plaza Zocodover, provides a good overall view of the city, including postcard-perfect views looking back from across the Tajo Gorge. But Toledo is essentially a walking city. Visitors can stroll around and through the ancient city walls, buy swords and sweet, nutty mazapan at the countless souvenir shops, and experience getting lost on the narrow, hilly medieval streets which become even more enchanted at night. That’s right: visitors will find it worthwhile to spend at least one night in Toledo, despite Michener’s original admonition.
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