Gaudi's Barcelona

A Visit to the Modernist Architect’s Greatest Works

© Christopher Cooper

Feb 24, 2009
Casa Mila, C.Cooper
The Catalan capital of Spain provides the setting for several famous creations by a leading exponent of art nouveau in Europe.

At the end of the 19th century, the region of Catalunya in Northeast Spain underwent a nationalistic cultural revival that gave birth to a form of modernism similar to the art nouveau movement in Europe. This version of Catalan Art Nouveau, in which artists and architects broke with tradition, was centered in Barcelona and lead by Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926). Tourists visiting Barcelona, and fans of leading-edge architecture in particular, should not miss three of his most famous works in the Catalonian city.

A Quintessential Modernist Building

One of the two Gaudi (gow-DEE) creations situated along the classy Passeig de Gracia boulevard is Casa Mila. The apartment minimizes traditional flat surfaces and straight lines by the use of rounded, irregularly spaced openings, and creative ironwork. The roof, balconies, and other elements have a wavelike appearance some associate with the look of melting ice cream. The unconventional building does not use load-bearing walls, but instead relies on pillars and arches. A combination ticket will take visitors inside the apartment and the attic, and to the rooftop for beautiful views of the city.

Gaudi’s House of Bones

Another work of Gaudi in the same Eixample neighborhood is Casa Batllo, also known as the “House of Bones.” This home has a façade made of sandstone covered with colorful mosaics and skull-like balconies. The scaled roof suggests the back of a dragon, and was reportedly based on the legend of St. George the Dragonslayer. Like Casa Mila, the rooftop is well worth a visit, especially for the unique roof sculptures and other decoration. Visitors should also note the great attention to detail on wooden doors, stained glass windows, and tile work throughout.

An Unfinished Church

Gaudi’s most famous project is La Sagrada Familia (Holy Family), the Roman Catholic church that consumed much of his life. This Barcelona landmark is rich in Christian symbolism representing Christ’s life from birth to crucifixion to resurrection, along with saints, angels, and other Biblical symbols. The original plans included three facades (Nativity, Passion, and Glory) and eighteen tall towers or spires (for the twelve apostles, the four evangelists, Mary, and Jesus). At the time of Gaudi’s death in 1926, only one façade and one tower were finished. Because construction depends on private money and entry fees, rather than steady government funding, it remains uncertain whether the church will be completed by the anniversary of Gaudi’s death in 2026. Currently, two of the three facades and eight of the towers are completed, with architects doing their best to follow Gaudi’s early modernist vision. An excellent museum below ground displays original architectural sketches and a history of the construction. Also on the site is the crypt where Gaudi is buried.

For a different look at Gaudi’s genius, visitors can take the metro to the Lesseps stop and walk about 25 minutes uphill to Parc Guell, a 30-acre park that was modeled by Gaudi after an English garden. Included among its serpentine trails are distinctive benches, pillars, and other artwork covered in ceramic tiles and broken glass. Several vantage points provide panoramic views of Barcelona and the unmistakable spires of La Sagrada Familia.


The copyright of the article Gaudi's Barcelona in Spain Travel is owned by Christopher Cooper. Permission to republish Gaudi's Barcelona in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Casa Mila, C.Cooper
Casa Batllo, C.Cooper
La Sagrada Familia, C.Cooper
   


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