Gran Canaria, More than Beaches

This island off the coast of North Africa is, in fact, often called “a continent in miniature” because of its varied climates and environments. Like its neighbors in Spain’s Canary Islands archipelago, Gran Canaria is a favorite spot to catch rays when the northern Europe is deep in winter cold, but the year-round temperate climate is inviting any time.

There is plenty of diversion in the heavily touristed beach areas around the capital of Las Palmas, where German, Italian and English pub food is more common than tapas or paella. But inquisitive travelers will soon head to other parts of the island, none of which is more than a day-trip away.

Begin with a bit of island history in Las Palmas, where you can visit the house where Columbus stayed when he stopped on his way across the Atlantic. Inside is also the city’s fine arts museum. Las Palmas is a pleasant city to stroll, with typical Canarian buildings adorned by delicate carved wooden balconies. Here also is Spain’s biggest botanic garden.

Nearby Maspalomas is a protected reserve of huge sand dunes stretching in layers to the sea. Wander in this sandy wilderness or cross it to a beautiful golden-sand beach. At one end is one of the island’s most popular beaches, painted with bright umbrellas and backed by a promenade and line of restaurants, cafes, shops and amusements. It’s one of the island’s liveliest beach scenes at any time of day or night. You can rent a bike here to follow the shore.

At the geographical center of the island, high in the mountains, is the carved stone Cross of Tejeda and the Parador, a good lunch stop. The hiking trails that radiate from this spot were once the only way to get from village to village. The parador stands at a 4500-foot elevation, and from these mountains are sweeping views that reach from 6,000-foot peaks to the coast far below.

On the eastern side of the island, drive to the rim of a huge volcanic crater, Caldera Bandama, and hike down to its floor. An entirely different microclimate lies at the bottom, and a green golf course lies along one slope. Local people still carve homes out of the steep cliffs in this region, as they have done since the aboriginal Guanches lived here. Another botanic garden lies deep in a lush tropical valley.

Below the hill town of Mogan, known for its beautiful gardens, lies Puerto de Morgan. Its canal, arched bridges and lagoon filled with boats has earned its “Venice of the Canaries” nickname. The attractive village, although clearly catering to tourists, still retains its authentic air, along with its fishing fleet. Boats can take visitors to white sandy beaches, or sightseeing in the deep blue waters or diving in the wrecks and caves. The local fishing co-op has a restaurant where you can be sure of a fresh catch.

Spectacular views reward a drive along the coastal road beyond, carved into the steep mountainside. The gentrified town of Agaete is on this road, worth a stop for its art galleries. Even more breathtaking mountain roads await on the island’s wild western side, where the scenery of steep, barren pink and red mountains and canyons is broken by blue reservoirs. A good way to explore this region up close without driving is to sign up for an all-day jeep safari.

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