Green Spain – The Basque Kingdom of Navarre
In the Foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees lies a Very Verdant Spain
Oct 11, 2009
Away from the parched area of Southern Spain and the costas, is a green world of mountains, waterfalls, caves and grottoes. One of the loveliest parts of Spain’s green north is the Kingdom of Navarre – in particular the Bértiz area located among the Atlantic Valleys of the Pyrenees.
Protected by the mountains and steep hillsides, the culture of the people has been preserved for generations, along with a distinctive village architecture and traditional farming methods. Now, with easy flights to Pamplona and San Sebastian and good road connections in between, the landscape and unspoiled beauty of the area is open to visitors.
What to see in the Kingdom of Navarre and Bértiz
For people making their first visit to the area, the best place to start is probably the Baztan Valley. An area perfect for walking or hiking, the megalithic monuments, dolmens, drumlins and stone circles scattered on the mountsides add special interest to the walks. The scenery is stunning and in the early morning when the mist is still thick on the ground and footfalls make no sound the experience can be quite eerie. Here and there, the piles of bracken heaped up for animal fodder loom up like sentinels guarding the mountain’s secrets. When the mist clears, watch for the golden eagles and the vultures that fly overhead.
Guided walking tours can be arranged through the tourist office or the hotel or hostel in which you stay can usually recommend a guide if needed and the Tourist Office has published some good walking guides if it is preferred to go it alone. There are 3 kinds of routes, the Long Route (of more than one day) where the trail is delineated with red and white marks, the Short Routes (half a day) of 8-15 Km. long and of which there are 13 marked with white and yellow, and the Minor Routes of 3-9 km. (about 2-3 hours) marked in white and green. Many people choose to walk the part of the Camino de Santiago that passes through the area, the famous route to Santiago de Compostelo which has attracted pilgrims for centuries. All the stories in Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" are tales told by pilgrims as they set of on this walk.
Specialities in the Baztan Valley
During the hunting season, October-November, watch out for the traditional pigeon hunters, called “palomeros" who hunt the birds with nets - the traditional way. This is a method dating from the 14th Century that allows the birds to be caught without the use of firearms. The third Sunday in October is the main date for the Pigeon Hunting Festival in Etxalar when the people throng the hunting areas to watch the fun. Later, in the evening, there is dancing and music in the town square.
As a follow on from the hunting season, game, in the form of pigeon, partridge, quail, wild board, deer and rabbit, is often the main dish in restaurants in the area during November.
The Autumn & Spring Fairs in Elizondo
These important lifestock shows (the Friday after 18th October for the Autumn fair and the Friday after Easter Sunday for the spring fair) with their displays of farm machinery, food, clothes and handicrafts are popular with the people of Navarre and are certainly worth a visit. Outside these main Fairs however, it is possible to visit other local livestock fairs where the placid, tan coloured cows have been specially spruced up for the day, and their proud owners display prizes and pedigrees to improve the sale. There are stalls selling brass bells for horses, dressed horns for home decoration (both of which make great souveneirs) and all the paraphernalia that goes with farming, as well as clothes and farmhouse equipment.
The Etxalar Cheese Fair, Baztan Valley, Navarre
This takes place on the first Sunday in June when there is a cheese contest. It is both a popular lunch and a dance, and a good place to see the people of Navarre really enjoy a day out.
Accommodation in the mountains or in the towns is very comfortable and the friendliness and hospitality afforded by the hosts of the establishments is second to none. Food is hearty, needed after a day’s hike, but exquisite salads are always available to anyone who wants something lighter. Taken along with the home-made bread and peppery olive oil, the food will satisfy everyone.
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