Brainchild of two English executives who wanted to escape the rat-race, the Hotel Casa Sibarita is in Rafelguaraf, an ancient town in eastern Spain, approximately 60km south of Valencia. Not surprisingly, the local economy is almost entirely involved in the production of citrus fruit, and the surrounding countryside is blanketed in orange and lemon trees.
The town is typical of this part of Spain. Rural by definition, the original buildings are at most three stories high, with light, pastel walls and large shuttered windows. Most of the streets are narrow, but the town is gradually expanding and more modern construction is apparent on the outskirts.
At its heart, the town square is an integral part of the inhabitants' life. There are two bars on opposite sides, with relatively new trees, benches and a fountain in between, complimenting the traditional architecture. With a population of barely 2500, Rafelguaraf prides itself in a strong community spirit and nowhere is this more apparent than the square.
At sunrise, the town's farmers meet in the bars for an early breakfast before leaving for the fields and yielding their places to the wives and mothers. Having completed the daily chores, they sit and gossip while young children run about, seemingly impervious to the heat. Then, the night belongs to the town's young people, who gather to chat and laugh until late.
Hotel Casa Sibarita Lobby and Bar
Situated halfway down one of the narrow streets, the hotel's facade is by no means ostentatious. Indeed, from a distance, it is only recognizable from the literature photographs because of the balcony overhanging the street below. Close in, though, it is obvious that this is no ordinary house. When the owners renovated this 19th century townhouse, they wanted to retain as much of the original character as possible.
Two huge oak doors lead into the lobby, which is cool and welcoming. A double-height barrel vault ceiling towers above hand-painted tiles. Add to this bookcases laden with tomes of all languages, armchairs and an ornate fireplace, and this looks more like a home than a hotel. This image is reinforced by the mouth-watering aromas coming from the kitchen at the rear, next to large glass doors that lead through to the courtyard pool.
Access to the rooms is via a wrought-iron and stone staircase. There are five rooms in all, each named after a Spanish city, and all equipped with air conditioning and en suite bathroom. The decor is bright, with brilliant white walls, colorful fabrics and light wood furniture. Two rooms have private terraces, and one has the Juliet balcony visible from the street. In keeping with other houses in the town, all the windows have wooden shutters to keep the harsh afternoon sun at bay, without shutting out the sounds of the town going about its day.
Hotel Casa Sibarita's Pool and Garden
Probably the largest project during renovation was sinking a 30ft pool into the rear courtyard. The yard was originally designed for horses and carts,so the pool fits easily, leaving ample room for patio furniture and sun beds. Large walls enclose the entire courtyard, providing complete privacy without blocking out the sun.
A lot of effort has also been put into the garden. Small trees, potted shrubs and flowers are liberally spread around, and climbing plants have brought the stone walls to life.
Dining at Hotel Casa Sibarita
For such a small town, there are a surprising number of places to eat, including two restaurants and several bars. However, it's definitely worth taking the convenient option and eating in. The dining area is cozy and the service prompt and friendly.
The menu is international with a Mediterranean slant. Whatever the angle the food is excellent, and this is down to both the chef's expertise and the use of locally-grown, fresh produce. A good measure of the restaurant's quality is the fact that the town's residents often eat there on the weekends.
After dinner, some guests choose to take a stroll around town, but most relax by the fireplace and enjoy a nightcap before retiring to bed.
Sightseeing from Hotel Casa Sibarita
Whilst it is possible to get to Rafelguaraf by train, public transport is very basic and a car is essential. Given the rather novel Spanish approach to road signs, a satellite navigation system should be considered a must as well.
The surrounding countryside is a joy to drive through, and orange trees soon admit defeat to mountainous terrain. The panoramic views from the steep, winding roads are breathtaking, as are some of the hairpin bends which often ambush the distracted driver.
The picturesque historical town of Xativa is within easy reach to the south, as are the popular coastal towns of Altea and Benidiorm to the east. There are also many little towns and villages in between, and part of the fun is picking one at random to explore, or even just for a coffee.
At the end of the day, there's nothing nicer than returning to Casa Sibarita and enjoying a sundowner by the pool, before getting ready for another agreeable dinner.
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