Madrid Parks: The Huge Parque del Buen Retiro

Relax or Promenade in Madrid’s Favorite Urban Retreat

© Stephen Bugno

Aug 10, 2008
Estanque del Retiro and the statue of Alfonso XII, Stephen Bugno
Join thousands of Madridleños dressed for show on their Sunday paseo through Madrid's beautiful Retiro Park.

As a fixture in the heart of contemporary Madrid, Parque del Retiro was originally land given to the King for recreational purposes. But for more than 100 years now, the citizens of Madrid and visitors alike have enjoyed the 330 acres of public land that El Retiro encompasses.

Walkways divide a mix of formal gardens and wide open spaces throughout the park in the French style. Grassy areas are interspersed with abundant tree species and on any given day during the warm-weather months you can find sun-bathers lying out, lovers frolicking, families picnicking, and workers relaxing among this greenery.

Park Activities

But not until the weekend, do the real multitudes come out; spontaneous football games begin, concentrated jugglers perform their routines, groups practice tai-chi, and individuals do yoga and virtually anything else you can imagine. The park’s many paths are also the favorite route of plenty of joggers, cyclists, and in-line skaters.

The Quiosco de Musica, in the north of the park, often holds musical concerts and puppet shows can be enjoyed by children near Puerta de Alcala. Some afternoons often generate the rhythms of a large improvisational drum circle as well as other unofficial musical acts.

Estanque del Retiro

The grand equestrian statue of Alfonso XII is situated within an impressive semi-circular colonnade. The complex, together with Estanque del Retiro, or Retiro’s Pond, was built in the 20th century and remains a focal point of the park. Today it is immensely popular with pleasure-boaters and people watchers.

Spread in every direction from the pond, street performers execute their skills as onlookers stare in awe and fortune tellers wait for clients.

On a more somber note, pay your respects to the victims of the 2004 Madrid train bombing at the Bosque de los Ausentes, a skillfully designed garden-monument of 192 olive and cypress trees.

Palacio de Cristal

Undoubtedly one the highlights of the park is the magnificent Palacio de Cristal, or Crystal Palace. This exquisite glass pavilion was erected next to a small pond in 1887 by architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco for the Philippine Islands Exhibitions which once displayed flower species indigenous to the island.

In the southern end of the park, but sure not to miss El Angel Caido, or the Fallen Angel, said to be the world’s only public statue to Lucifer. This dramatic creation from 1922 illustrates Lucifer falling from heaven.

When in Madrid, be certain to witness the varied activities of Retiro Park and take a rest from sightseeing to imbibe the laid-back rhythm of the Spanish lifestyle.


The copyright of the article Madrid Parks: The Huge Parque del Buen Retiro in Spain Travel is owned by Stephen Bugno. Permission to republish Madrid Parks: The Huge Parque del Buen Retiro in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Estanque del Retiro and the statue of Alfonso XII, Stephen Bugno
El Angel Caido, the statue of Lucifer , Stephen Bugno
     


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