Spectacular views, exciting bird watching.....they can all be found in the Val D'Aran.
Straddling both sides of the Central Pyrenees the breath-taking Val D’Aran manages to retain both its French and its Spanish character. The scenery may look the same but there can be no doubting which side of the border one happens to be in. As soon as you emerge from the rather dark and dusty Veihla Tunnel there’s no mistaking you’re in Spain. Somehow it seems to be louder, brighter, more ‘in-your-face’ than its gentler neighbours.
But the whole area is still much quieter and less visited than the eastern costas, yet only three hours from Barcelona‘s airport and the hustle and bustle of the Ramblas and the chic shops of the Gran Via.
For those who prefer their fun to be the white knuckle variety rafting on the Nogura Pallaresa, the most powerful river in the Spanish Pyrenees, can supply plenty of thrills. It’s a mecca for rafters, but beware….at the start of the season, which runs from April to September; the water temperature can be freezing so the right gear is essential.
For walkers the entire area is a paradise. Well- marked routes have been designated by the Spanish tourist board in the last few years, and cater for all abilities, from the gentle ramble to the difficult clamber over sliding scree to the summit of a peak that will reward the exhausted climber with a panoramic view .It will take what’s left of their breath away.
The Tourist Board offices in the nearby towns of La Pobla de Segor or Tremp are very helpful with plenty of maps and advice.
An idyllic place to stay is the village of Santa Engracia, arguably the most beautiful village in Catalonia. It is positioned approximately halfway between la Pobla de Segur and Tremp, up a well signed road which although alarmingly twisty is well surfaced. Once on this road the village can be seen in the distance, seemingly perched on the knife edge of a soaring cliff with no visible means of support... The road ends at the entrance to the village, ten kms from the main road.
It’s not a place for the faint hearted. The houses cling to the cliff like barnacles, but there’s no sign of the sea. The only sighting of water is the beautiful San Antoni reservoir, hundreds of feet below on the opposite side of the main road; perfect for swimming and trout fishing from its sandy banks. There is accommodation to be had here, a small guest house perches like a galleon on the tip of the ancient monolith, facing defiantly across the valley as if to repel boarders. Nowadays it exudes a warm welcome with all mod cons, and the English hosts offer full board in a family atmosphere. And considering the twists and turns of the road back to town for an evening meal, it’s probably just as well! There are self-catering cottages in the village too, which provide some spectacular views from the terraces, perfect for avid bird watchers.
And birds there are in an embarrassing multitude.
From the top of the village looking over gorge towards the distant military academy in Talarn, .its possible to watch eagles, Egyptian vultures and if you’re lucky a lammergeyer (or bearded vulture to give it it’s easier name) circling on the morning thermals far off down the gorge. Other birds seen in the area include:
Black and griffon vultures
Short-toed booted and Bonelli’s eagle
Black and red kites
Hoopoes, and bee-eaters
Common, pallid and alpine swifts
Black, green, great spotted and white backed woodpeckers……the list is endless.
Spring is perhaps the best time of year to visit. The meadows are full of wild flowers long forgotten in more populated parts of Europe, and fields of poppies lie in wait to assault the eyes
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