Two Spanish Carnivals Rival Rio
Spain’s Carnaval Celebrations in Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Cadiz
Carnaval festivities in Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Cadiz outshine even the rest of Spain during the days before Lent begins – and Spain is famous for colorful carnivals all over the country. Santa Cruz’s flamboyant blast is known as the most Brazilian outside of Rio, and draws thousands upon thousands of visitors from all over the world to join the fun.
Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnaval
Preparations begin months ahead for the elaborate floats that line the parade route and for the shows that entertain the crowds of costumed revelers. New songs are written and rehearsed, dances are perfected, costumes sewn and masks designed. All this preparation is just the backdrop for the tremendous explosion of human energy and enthusiasm that bursts into the streets.
For a week, it seems as though no one in Tenerife’s capital sleeps – or works. And who could, with the noise, music and lights filling all the streets? The week begins with a parade of floats, samba dancers, bands, musical groups, and lavishly costumed girls competing for the coveted title of Carnaval Queen. For several days the city is transformed into a kaleidoscope of swirling colors and sounds in which social and economic differences disappear behind masks and everyone just has fun.
Cadiz Carnaval
In Cadiz, the most elaborate of the festivals on the Spanish mainland (Tenerife is one of Spain’s seven Canary Islands), lasts for 11 days. Before carnaval officially begins, groups from all over the city throw street parties filled with food, singing and laughter as they try out their performances before live audiences.
This part of Cadiz’s carnaval is a good time for visitors to sample local foods, and although foreigners may not be able to understand the words to the songs performed – they are often parodies of current political events – they will certainly enjoy the music and quickly get caught up in the spontaneous spirit.
On the first Friday of the carnaval, the Falla Theatre competition includes more than 100 of these groups that have been practicing for the past several weeks. Lasting all night, it is a riot of music, color and good humor, and one of the festival’s main events. The next day, Carnaval officially begins, with all the revelry moving into the city’s broad promenades, narrow streets and pretty plazas. On Sunday and Monday, these costumed minstrels wander the streets singing and performing on stages.
Mixing into the crowds with these “official” groups are informal groups of friends and family members called charangas ilegales, who also sing and perform on their own, so it sometimes seems that there are as many performing as listening. They usually gather in the old town square, Plaza de las Flores. All these events take place amidst a constant buzz of outdoor parties, dances and activities, punctuated by fireworks.
Hotel Rooms Hard to Find
On Carnaval Tuesday – the day before Lent begins – these festivals reach their colorful climax, before life goes back to normal. To take part – it is almost impossible to be only a spectator at these contagious festivals – plan well in advance for lodgings. Since the season coincides with high tourist season in the Canary Islands, lodging there is at its fullest. Luckily, Cadiz is on a train line from Seville, but with the entire of Spain engaged in its own carnivals, hotel rooms are not easy to find anywhere a the last minute.
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